Took my coupe to the body shop today!

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47convert

Guest
Wow, finally got my glass 34 to the body guy today. I couldn't get the dang doors to fit right. He had the driver's door look'n good and latching properly in less than an hour. I'm going to get him to get it ready for primer and I'm driving it that way. This one's been under construction for way too long. Must be an age thing.
 
Good move Mike getting her on the go..........Will be lots of room in the shop for the 51 Meteor Conv...................

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love the dash and steering wheel in this car, its going to be a great lookin ride
 
I like her, but ain't gonna hug her! It'll probably be flat blacl for a year or so, but I gotta drive it this year. The reason for the orange - only colour the powder coater had that I liked at the time
 
Tiquer was telling us of some body work secrets. A lot of door adjustments are done by adjusting the body shims.........:D

Russ
 
Yep. I've done that on some of my other cars, but this one just didn't seem to respond well to anything I did. It's look'n a lot better already.
 
flat black?

AND I brought it back home today! He's got the doors closing nicely, fixed the body around my Cobra style gas filler, Filled the hole where I thought the gas filler was gonna go (Sic) and shot a little black prime here and there to wet my whistle, I think. HE's got the door gaps looking nice - so Mikie's a happy happy boy! What would you guys shoot for flat black now. Maybe just black base without the clear like I did on my model A when the base/clear first came out? It's a glass car so I don't think I need to apply the clear any time soon. Jim Baillie agreed to build me an aluminum roll pan that'll tie in with my firewall he made. I'll get him to recess the plate in there too.
 
If you just want something temporary and not to make it tougher for down the line maybe lay a coat of black sealer on it. It will not give a big build up but is just for temporary not permantely temporary... You do not want a build up of product until you are doing the final finish..You also do not want to put on a product that will come back to haunt you with problems......
 
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DP 90.... but play around with the formula a bit..... we've found by holding back on the amount of catalyst that they recommend you get a flat black with a smidge of sheen to it.
 
DP 90.... but play around with the formula a bit..... we've found by holding back on the amount of catalyst that they recommend you get a flat black with a smidge of sheen to it.

Tinn put in the proper catalyst and then add the proper reducer to it and then it is a sealer. Put on two coats......
Hugh................PTP.........................
 
Mike I would go with Epoxy for sure. You should have it on there for a base anyhow. The epoxy I use on my stuff has a bit of a shiene to it. I can change it by adding 5% of diff speeds of reducer. I have a bunch of pieces done in epoxy for my '46. I can grab one and bring it over if you like. You have to remember that epoxy is UV sensitive. I've seen some chaulk up in just a matter of months. The one I use is good for about 4 years. With epoxy on there then all you need to do is scuff it and off you go when you are ready to do the final paint job. Let me know and I'll pop over.

Aero
 
I hope so. I finished up last night around 11"30 = got the intake and carbs on, put the distributer in and plugged in the plug wires - Cranked it - I think I'm a tooth out and will try again tonight - took care of my grandson today so didn't get out there yet.
 
I hope so. I finished up last night around 11:30 - got the intake and carbs on, put the distributer in and plugged in the plug wires - Cranked it - I think I'm a tooth out and will try again tonight - took care of my grandson today so didn't get out there yet.
 
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47convert, your 34 looks great, and I'm not biased when it comes to 34 Ford coupes:D Did Bruce Allen of Hiboys 'n Hotrods in Ontario build your glass body? If so, how was he to deal with?
 
No, I got in Buffalo NY. It's a pretty good body but they don't use enough reinforcement inside and a lot of it's plywood instead of hard wood so I've added quite a bit myself, including a 1 5/8" "roll Bar" that is actually used to tie the two B posts together to strenghten the door hinge area and the trunk hinges. I think I'd go elsewhere if I was to do it again.