Oil pan removal 350 SBC help.

Ken47

Ken47

Active Member
Supporting Member
Hi. I was wondering if anyone has some experience or thoughts on how to remove the oil pan that is glued on. It has a gasket but looks like the engine builder used gasket shellac on it. I’ve got all the bolts out but it’s still solid as hell. I was hoping not to have to take the engine out to do this. This whole effort was to change the rear main seal that has been leaking oil since day one.
 
Gasket shellacked gaskets should just pop off. Probably silicone sealer. Wood chisel..insert between the pan and block..tap lightly ..should come off…
 
Maybe al37Ford can chime in…he said he had a leaky bottom end awhile ago…funny stuff….hahahahahaha..I make me laugh..hahahaha….sorry al..little fun at your expense…lol…
 
I wouldn't pry it off as you will bend the pan flange. Try tapping on each side near the bottom with a rubber mallet. If all the bolts are out it should break loose.
 
Just took mine off tonight not a sbc though.
I glued it on too good!
Used a sharpened chisel in an air hammer to get a start. Tried everything else first, ridiculous!
 
Hi. I was wondering about an air chisel. Were you concerned about damage to the block mounting surface using the air chisel?
 
I would certainly only use an air chisel as a last resort . Depending on what glue was used a heat gun may help .
 
Ken47 said:
Hi. I was wondering about an air chisel. Were you concerned about damage to the block mounting surface using the air chisel?
Click to expand...
It was a last resort. The pan has been much modified to work in the car and the only reason I'm
removing is one of my welds cracked. I hammered on the pan and what not to the point I was concerned about hurting it more.
I sharpened the chisel like a wood chisel and relatively low air pressure and it eventually released a corner. Pry bars then made it easy work.
Yes I'm a hack, I hurt the block a wee bit but not enough to hurt the seal and the corner of the pan may need some help but it's out.
 
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I was able to get a front corner separated. I Bent the pan flange doing it. I’ve even driven chisels and pry bars along the length of the pan. It’s in an awkward place to get at. Still it’s stuck on solid. Even under the timing chain cover and the rear main seal it’s solid as a rock. I’ll try the heat gun idea next. I’m looking at a new pan I think now😄😄. I guess the original engine builder only cared about it initially not leaking with no concern for future maintenance.
 
Wow, never had that much trouble. Usually a putty knife with a little 'hammer' help has always gotten me a start and work from there. I never used anything other than RTV but I have heard some of the newer products can get that crazy. I hated oil leaks but as you say one must think about future maintenance. I know I think sometimes I won't ever have to do that again, only to have to eat my words!
 
I bet if you left all the bolts out and went for a drive it would fall off . lol
 
Pans can be straightened out pretty easy. Little heat and start wedging in some large flat head screwdrivers along the edge. Getting all that old sealant off the pan and block is going to be a bitch though…good luck..
 
Thanks. I know it’s going to be a big job to get the sealant off once the pan’s off.
I have it on a hoist so it’s a little better than laying on the floor.
 
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Update. I got the pan off. I used a hook shaped knife and tapped it with a hammer along one side of the pan and basically slit the gasket. Then hit the pan from side to side with a rubber mallet and it lossend up. Then pryed it off. The pan flange is pretty messed up 😄
The picture attached is of the timing chain cover pan gasket retainer. I looks like there was some sealant used on the backside of the old rubber gasket. I’m not sure what it is but I am sure it’s likely to be a bitch to clean off😄
 
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The upper half of the rear main seal came out with no problems. The picture is of the main bearing cap. Would you put any sealant where the back of the where to lower half of the seal goes or just clean up what’s there and put the seal in dry. There is something there now but I’m not sure if is old sealant or degraded oil. Thanks.
 
Going to assume the seal is a two part hardened rubber type, just clean the area and when putting the seal in offset the ends so they do not join where the block and main cap do. I used to put a small dab of rtv on the ends of the seal just before installing. Make sure the correct side is facing forward.
 
Yes it’s a split seal. I am going to do what you suggest. I have also read some people put a bit of RTV between the block and the bearing cap. I’m not sure if that a good idea or necessary.
 
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