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Fuel Lines
Text and photos by Bob Klowak

The motor's in and the fuel tank as well. It's time to install the fuel lines. The lines chosen were stainless steel. Since the engine is fuel injected, a feed line of 3/8" and a return line of 5/16" were bent to follow the frame. The lines are very hard to bend and the first tube bender made from cast aluminum broke. After getting a steel type they looked somewhat like this.

The fuel filter chosen was a GM type because it is made of stainless steel and will polish well. The pressure fitting is special but can be duplicated. This pix shows how it was made and is pulled out slightly for display. The tube, after being placed in the swage block should protrude about 3/8". A nut was drilled exactly the outsize diameter of the tube and the double flair nipple that will fit in the tube tight was inserted with pressure.

The swage block had to be put into the vise and clamped very tight. This will prevent the tube from sliding in the block. Stainless is very hard to compress but it will and will turn out like factory. You could go out and buy the proper tools but they run around $500.00 US. A bit pricey.

After I was happy with the way it looked an "O" ring was installed and fit well. Make sure you put the nut on before to begin the crimp, The tube may not be long enough if you have to cut off the crimp.

The fuel filter was polished and the lines were installed. Everything was hung into place under the frame and checked for there proper bends. Slight bends can be made as you go along to make the lines fit.
The lines were installed starting at the gas tank and moving to the front. The clamps that hold the lines parallel were made the same as the spark plug wire holders but the line holes were drilled 3/8" and 5/16" respectively. A fuel filter holder was made from what else, aluminum.
The Fuel filter holder hole was drilled with a 2" metal hole saw. A small hole was drilled to let the return line pass through the bracket in order to keep the lines parallel. The filter holder was bolted with a countersunk hole to allow the filter to slide in.
There were seven clamps made to hold the fuel lines in place and a ¼-20 Allen screw was used. The fuel line at the engine was capped and fuel was put in the tank and the pump was started to check for leaks. Over tightening the nuts will damage the "O" ring.
The half circle you see is where the frame will be notched so the lines had to be positioned up above it. Notching the frame will allow the axle to travel a little higher in case of a hard bump.
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