Getting To Work On Our Frame

by Frank Colgoni

First Off: Some Cosmetic Surgery
We mentioned in article one that “custom work will be kept to a minimum. If, during the build, we feel that some customization or change will improve the overall look, performance or distinctiveness of the car, we will pursue it.”

Well, having said that, what do we start with? Custom work - of course. After some discussion, we decided to do a little cosmetic surgery that would affect the overall length of the frame and specifically the length of the front frame horns. The stock wheelbase of 106” remains unaffected.

By taking 2” out of the frame rail / frame, and with the diameter of the front tire that we’re using (195/65X15), the tip of the frame horns / front spreader bar ends up almost exactly lined up with the leading edge of the tire (rather than 2” in front of it).

To achieve this, and to help maintain the integrity of the rail /strength, the rail was sectioned by Dream Machines so that the material removed came out of different places on the rail top, side and bottom rather than straight through.


Our sectioned rail

By taking out the material at this point, the frame horn retains its shape.
Establishing Critical Dimensions
There are a number of ways to establish dimensions when building a frame from scratch. Obviously, the first way is to consult a drawing(s) (and we did). If available, an original frame that hasn’t been altered from its production dimensions might be another way. Also, frames from other projects are useful. Proceed with caution though with all references.

Having done a number of cars with replica bodies, a lesson learned is to use the body (your body) as another, important, reference. It is a fact that all bodies are not created equal – in terms of dimensions that is. In the case of the ’32 body, there is a natural channelling that occurs where the body overlaps the frame starting at the cowl and ending at the rear quarter. Because of this, the frame must fit in the pocket formed by this channel. The dimensions of this pocket from your body can be compared with your reference measurements. Better to do this than to have the body either not fit over the frame or be too sloppy.

With new rails like ours, it’s a good time to compare front to back body mounting locations with the holes in the top of the frame where weldnuts will be fastened. Also, side-to-side / centre-to-centre dimensions of our body mounting locations were noted and struts were cut to length and holes were drilled at these centre-to-centre dimensions taken from the body. These will be used to aid in establishing width. Before the rails go into the fixture, the weldnuts are fastened to the underside of the upper rail horizontal. We added an extra body mounting location location in the middle of the door opening to allow for additional shimming.

When we were satisfied with our reference measurements, the fixture laterals (outriggers) were established. The rails were positioned on the laterals and the side-to-side struts were loosely fastened to the rails. Spacer blocks are put under the frame at two lateral positions where the frame is meant to be parallel with the frame table.


The rails sit loosely on the outriggers with the struts in place.
Verticals are being cut and added to each outrigger.
Pinching Rails
Before proceeding, a few words about pinching the ’32 rails. If you’re not familiar with the term, pinching refers to the process of bringing the rails closer together at the front end on highboy frames to eliminate the gap between the hood and the frame rail toward the front end of the hood side. This is matter of preference and not necessary (obviously).

When the rails are pinched, a number of additional modifications are required: front crossmember width, rad mounting locations, panhard bar length, spreader bar width. Our rails will be pinched 7/8” on each side.


An unpinched rail / resulting hood alignment

The result of pinching
Securing The Frame Rails To The Fixture
Before the boxing plates go on, side-to-side dimensions are established, uprights are attached to the laterals, the rails are squared, the front frame horns are secured to a speader bar arrangement that is part of the fixture (at pinched dimension) and then the rails are tacked to the uprights. At this stage the boxing of the rails could begin. With these precautions and a sensible welding sequence, movement in the rails from the boxing process / heat will be controlled.

Vertical are in place and tacked

Rails have been piched and held in place by fixtured spreader.
Boxing The Rails
As the frame is in the fixture, there’s no question that the boxing process is more difficult. Once the welding is completed on the boxing plates and crossmembers are added, the frame can be removed from the fixture. The welds can then be dressed.

Rear boxing plate going in

Intersection of front and rear boxing plates

Resources:

Next Up - Crossmembers / Intro to front and rear ends
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