Windshield
Components and Installation |
By Frank Colgoni
In this article, we're going to introduce you to windshield
components and walk you through the installation on our body. While
the windshield components are somewhat common, the actual installation
is likely not. That is, it will vary by body and body manufacturer.
Windshield Components
For our application, the
windshield assembly consists of:
a pair of lower stanchions (the uprights that fasten
to the body)
a pair of upper stanchions (the extensions that can
pivot forward on the lower stanchions - they also anchor a roof
header rail)
a windshield frame assembly (upper and lower pieces
that separate to fit glass)
two frame studs (studs that thread into the frame
that allows the frame to swivel outward at the bottom)
two cones (slips over stud and fits into upper stanchion
cup)
four wing nuts (fasten upper stanchion to lower stanchion
and terminates stud on upper stanchion)
two rubber insulators (for use between lower stanchions
and the body
These components are shown in photos that follow - both exploded
and assembled. |
Here's everything laid out.
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The chrome frame is by Brookville
Roadster and features a 3" chop. The chrome lower
stanchions, studs, cones and insulators are by Vintique. They stainless upper stanchions (to suit a 3" chop obviously)
were sourced by The
Old Car Centre. |
Here's how everything goes together. |
Windshield Installation
Original bodies, or bodies that mimic
original bodies, will have a ridge that runs across the top of
the cowl. This ridge provides a surface for the lower windshield
rubber strip (weatherstrip) to sit against. The ridge terminates
at a "pad" where the lower
stanchion mounts to the body. The pad is similar in shape to the
lower stanchion/rubber insulators and is relatively flat. The pads
on our body were not drilled for mounting bolts. |
This photo shows the ridge in the cowl. |
The ridge terminates at each end in a pad area that is meant to mate
up with the rubber insulator/lower stanchion. |
John (of Dream Machines Ltd.) and I discussed various options
relative to first steps. We concluded that, because the windshield
frame dictates the overall width of the windshield assembly, we should
start by assembling everything to see how it fit relative to the
pads on the body and the ridge on the cowl. Because the windshield
assembly flops around when brought together (because of the upper
swivel points), we decided to strap the frame to the stanchions with
tie wraps. A spacer was put between the frame and the lower stanchion
to equalize the gap. |
This made it possible to handle the whole assembly with ease and
maintain alignment. The groove in the bottom of the windshiled
frame is for the rubber strip. Also note that the bottom of the
lower stanchion is tapped for bolts (more on this later). |
We also taped a couple of spacers to the ridge as a start point
in determining height. |
After positioning the assembly a few times, we felt that we
were in a position to settle on the final location. The final location
had to consider both horizontal orientation and vertical orientation
on the pads. Vertically, it ended up being slightly lower than
ideal and, as a result, we couldn't get a consistent gap between
the frame and the ridge. As we had good horizontal orientation,
we concluded that we would proceed regardless and deal with the
gap during the bodywork stage.
To finalize the location, we masked off the pad area and moved the
assembly in place including the rubber insulators. Once positioned,
we traced around the insulators. After removing the assembly, we
positioned the insulators once more and used the holes in the insulators
to determine a starting position for fasteners. |
This shows the tracing around the insulators. The holes in the insulators
were used to get a "directional" positioning for the fasteners.
Pilot holes have been drilled at this point. |
As provided, the lower stanchions are tapped to receive two
bolts that are meant to be fed from the underside. Our body was
fitted with a curved plate beneath the pad area - the curve not
being ideal for fastening to. Further, as we will be putting
a top on the car, the stanchions must be very
secure. After some additional consideration, two decisions were
made:
- To replace the lower stanchion bolts with
studs so that nuts could be fitted on the underside.
The studs would maintain registration when assembling and permit
tightening without fear of damaging the stanchion.
- To fabricate
tubes to attach to the curved plate which would provide
a square surface to accept the nuts.
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At this point, the pilot holes through the top side were made larger
and the bolts are in position. Because of the curve in the plate,
the washer does not sit flat. We used this fastening method temporarily
to check overall positioning. |
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At this point, the bolts have been replaced by high strengh studs. |
Dream Machines opened up some tube to accept the studs after which
the tube
was cut to length and bevelled on one end to sit against
the plate. |
This photo illustrates the tube for the larger stud before welding. |
Both tubes have been welded to the curved plate. When tightened,
everything pulls into the correct poistion. |
To complete the under-dash work, Dream Machines added a support
that runs between the tops of the curved plates. This will prevent
the plates from shifting when the nuts are tightened and adds rigidity.
The curved plate will receive further reinforcement when the dash
support bracket is added. |
Note: In order to access the curved plate area, we removed the
dash/lower dash support. The dash support comes from the manufacturer
welded to the steel upright that the curved plate is welded to.
We'll be making the dash / lower dash support a removeable piece
in the next article. |
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Next Up - Dash, steering column and linkage |
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